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Dimplex
Dimplex electric fireplaces run on standard household power with no gas line, no venting and no flue, which is why electric is usually the answer for apartments, bedrooms and conversions. The range spans recessed linear units, Revillusion fireboxes and Optimyst models that generate real water vapor. Heat is a separate switch from the flame.
Choosing a Dimplex Electric Fireplace
Dimplex splits into four families, and the right one is usually decided by where the fireplace goes rather than by budget.
The ranges we carry
IgniteXL and Ignite Evolve are linear built-ins, designed to sit fully recessed in a wall so only the glass shows. These are the units specified in new builds and renovations, in widths from 50 to 100 inches.
Revillusion takes a different approach: a curved rear screen and a three-dimensional log set, so the fire still reads correctly when viewed from an angle rather than head-on. That matters in an open-plan room where nobody sits square to the fireplace.
BF Series fireboxes are the straightforward built-in option: the sensible choice when the fireplace is one element of a room rather than the focus of it.
Practical Considerations
Heat is separate from flame
On every current Dimplex unit the heater and the flame effect are independent controls. The visual can run year-round at almost no cost, with the heater used only in winter. If you are buying primarily for appearance, heat output should not drive the decision.
Hardwired or plug-in
Larger built-ins are typically hardwired to a dedicated circuit. Plug kits are available for several models where running a fixed circuit is impractical, worth confirming before the wall is closed up.
Recessed depth is the constraint
Linear units are shallow but not flat. Check the required recess depth against your wall construction early; it is the single most common reason an install stalls.
Frequently Asked Questions
- How many amps does an electric fireplace use?
- A full-size electric fireplace running its heater draws around 12.5 amps on a 120V circuit, which is close to the practical ceiling of a standard 15-amp household circuit. That is why manufacturers ask for a dedicated circuit: share it with a space heater or a vacuum and the breaker will trip. Running flame effect only, without heat, draws a small fraction of that, typically under an amp.
- Can you leave an electric fireplace on all night?
- The flame effect is LED and safe to run continuously; it produces no combustion and almost no heat. The heating element is a different question: most units include a timer and an overheat cut-out precisely because leaving a heater unattended overnight is not advised. Running flame without heat is the normal way to leave one on.
- Does an electric fireplace need a vent?
- No. There is no combustion, so there is nothing to vent: no flue, no chimney, no gas line, no make-up air. That is the entire reason electric is specified in apartments, bedrooms, basements and conversions where a gas appliance cannot be routed. Units do need clear airflow around the heater outlet, which is a clearance requirement rather than a venting one.
- How much does it cost to run an electric fireplace?
- Flame effect alone is negligible, comparable to a few light bulbs. With the heater on, a typical unit draws about 1.5 kW, so at 15 cents per kWh that is roughly 22 cents an hour. The heater is the entire cost; the flame is not.
- How do you measure for an electric fireplace insert?
- Measure the width, height and depth of the existing opening at its narrowest point, not the outer face, and check for any lintel or damper that reduces the depth. Compare against the appliance dimensions rather than the trim dimensions: the trim kit covers the gap, but the firebox itself has to physically fit the smallest point of the opening.
